Repotting feels intimidating, but it’s a routine part of healthy houseplant care. Done right, your plant barely notices the change. Done wrong, it can sulk for weeks. Here’s the simple framework that gets it right every time.
Signs it’s time to repot
- Roots circling the bottom or pushing out the drainage hole.
- Water runs straight through the pot.
- Plant dries out within a day or two.
- Soil has compacted and pulls away from the sides.
Choose the pot
Drainage
Drainage holes are non-negotiable. If you love a decorative cachepot without holes, keep the plant in an inner nursery pot you can lift out.
Size
Move up only one size — typically 1–2 inches wider in diameter. Too big a jump leaves wet soil that roots can’t fill, leading to rot.
Repotting steps
- Water the plant a day before repotting — moist roots transplant best.
- Squeeze the old pot to loosen the rootball; lift the plant out gently.
- Inspect the roots. Trim any black, mushy, or circling roots with clean scissors.
- Add fresh mix to the new pot so the rootball sits at its original depth.
- Set the plant in, fill around with soil, press lightly. Don’t bury the stem.
- Water in to settle the soil and remove air pockets.
Aftercare
- Keep the plant out of strong sun for a week.
- Hold off on fertilizer for 4–6 weeks.
- Some leaf droop is normal — give it 7–10 days to recover.
Practical tips
- Repot in spring when active growth resumes.
- Reuse old pots after washing with mild soap and rinsing well.
- Save large nursery pots — they’re perfect inserts for decorative cachepots.
FAQ
Can I repot in winter? Only if the plant is severely rootbound or sick. Otherwise, wait for spring.
Should I add rocks at the bottom? No — that actually traps water. Choose a pot with proper drainage instead.
Conclusion
Repot at the right time, into the right pot, with the right mix, and most plants barely flinch. For a complete care system, see our indoor plant care guide.
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